La Folie

La Folie doesn't garner the type of name-recognition as other San Francisco establishments like Gary Danko and Fleur de Lys. In fact, even though the place is a stone's throw from my apartment, I've never heard of it until I poked around on Yelp and discovered that it's the highest rated fine dining restaurant in the city. My wonderful Orin took me here as a treat to make up for staying in for New Year's Eve and I was anticipating the meal for more than a week. To dispel any suspense, La Folie lived up to my lofty expectations and then some! 


Let's start with the ambiance -- the dining room is surprisingly small and seats only around 30 people. The environment is very romantic, with candlelight and white table clothes. The table for two is a tad large to be considered "intimate", but that leaves plenty of space for the various glassware and plates. I liked that the tables were not tightly packed so there's a semblance of privacy. 


Our waiter was business-like and didn't try to make small talk, not that I mind since I didn't want to chat for five minutes while I itch to dig into my food. The overall service was impeccable. The servers always walk to the other side of the table instead of reaching across to place new silverware or fill our waters. Even the guy that hands out the bread makes sure to put the bread right-side up with the seam on top. That type of attention to detail is certainly admirable and enhances the dining experience.

The bread plate

Presidio Social Club

The boyfriend and I have been meaning to dine at the Presidio Social Club for a while and finally, last Friday, we came here for date night. First, this place gets massive props just for its parking lot!! Yes, you heard it right, free and easy PARKING!! And not just a 3-4 car dinky lot, but it has at least 20-25 spots!! I thought I died and angels carried me to suburban heaven. And on a completely unrelated note, even for the Marina/Presidio, this place is extremely white (not that there's anything wrong with that). I have never seen so many blondes (fake or otherwise) in my life.

After perusing the menu, we agonized between sharing the pork chops and burger or get the ribeye steak for two. In the end, we decided to hedge and error on the side of variety. We also ordered the chicken liver pâté to start, a Moscow mule for me and Makers on the rocks for the boy. We held hands and dreamily locked peepers over the flickering candle night -- another romantic date night was about to commence. Not sure if it was the booze or the dim light, but hot damn, the boyfriend looked good! Hope the sentiment was mutual :).

First up, the pâté. It had a nice layer of fat on top, which my boyfriend (not so) surreptitiously scrapped off and dug in for the pink stuff. I didn't mind the fat, more flavor for me! The pâté was smooth and didn't taste organ-y at all; paired with the fig (?) jam, me likey! The toast points that came with the dish could use a bit more refinement, they were essentially whole wheat bread cut into sticks. I think a fancier, more toasted bread would be preferable. Nevertheless, it was a great start to the meal.

Chicken liver pâté 

Evan's American Gourmet Cafe

Ski season is almost upon us and I'm sure SF dwellers will trek to Tahoe by the bus-load. In case anyone is interested in a little upscale fare in the boonies, well, you don't have to look farther than Evan's American Gourmet Cafe. I dined there a while back when the boyfriend and I were in the area for a celebrity golf tournament. After much browsing on yelp, we decided on Evan's for a romantic dinner on our first mini-vacation. The restaurant is tiny and we were required to call the day of to reconfirm the meal. I find it pretty snooty that they ask the patrons to call to confirm instead of the other way around, but c'est la vie.

We arrive at the restaurant 10 minutes early. The host told us that our table would be ready in a few minutes. While we were standing there, we saw another table for 2 ready to go. The host said that another party specifically reserved that table for 8:30. Well, we waited and waited. The other table arrived more than 15 minutes late and were sipping wine before we were seated. While we twiddled our thumbs, the staff essentially ignored us. Let's just say I was more than a bit peeved.

Finally, after more than 30 minutes, we were seated, sans any apologies or peace offerings from the kitchen. Thankfully, we got a corner table with a bird's eye view of the entire dinning room. Not that the place was much to look at. I appreciated some of the small details -- white table clothes, wines chilled on ice and freshly baked bread. I noticed the waiters would fill my water and walk to the other side of the table to fill my boyfriend's glass instead of reaching across (granted, they gave us a huge table that could seat 5). The decor of the place looked like an episode of I Love the 80's -- tacky wallpaper and overdone valances. I had to battle the urge to run into the bathroom and tease my hair.

Eat-alian for Beginners

This is my first post on the food that I experience on my travels. The page has been under construction for quite a while and I'm so happy and excited to finally fill it out! I hope to share some of my insights on foreign cuisine and the entries will also serve as an excellent travel blog for me to reminisce upon. Let's face it, for people who love to eat, we remember our vacations on a meal-by-meal basis as much as we recall the tourist attractions.

Here's a little background on our trip -- it's the first full-on vacation with my wonderful/handsome boyfriend, Orin, and I. We stayed in four cities -- Rome, Florence, Cinque Terre and Venice. We also made day trips to Siena and Ghizzano, a little town in the Tuscan countryside. My overall impression of the food is that the Italians certainly follow the "eat seasonal, eat local" motto. It's not a "movement", it's a way of life. Even lettuce tasted more, well, lettuce-y. We visited several markets, and let me tell you, the abundance and variety of produce and deli goods would make any American yuppie green with envy. My only complaint is that, on many occasions, the restaurants can be very heavy handed with salt. Portions are noticeably smaller, but that's probably a good thing. 

Rome	Florence
Cinque Terre	Venice

We tried as much as we could to eat outside of the tourist areas to get a feel of "authentic Italian food". We definitely developed a case of the self-hating-tourist-itis. We would prowl for restaurants that weren't dominated by English speakers. I believe we were fairly successful in our quest to sample the foods that the natives enjoy. Make sure to do your homework ahead of time. Orin almost wore out his thumb flipping through our Lonely Planet and Rick Steve travel guides in search of the best places to eat (thank you, wonderful/handsome boyfriend!). We had our misses, but undoubtedly hit a few gems during the trip. Well, I'm going to stop the jabbering and start talking about the food!! A warning, if you're not hungry now, you will be by the end of the entry.

The place-setting at this little restaurant in Tuscany

Incanto

I celebrated my 30th here with the whole pig and Incanto did not disappoint -- the food was amazing, the service attentive and the staff really made the evening memorable for us. I arrived a little early before the 6:30 reservation to look over the wine list. The list is extensive with spirits from the different regions of Italy. For 17 of us, we got 3 bottles of prosecco, 2 bottles of white, 2 bottles of red and a bottle of sparkling red. The recommendations from the sommelier were spot on and the wine really lubricated the night.

To start, we got two heaping platters dripping with meaty goodness. The mixed boccalone antipasto platter consisted of sliced ham, mortadella, salumi, headcheese and a pate; also on the plate were braised petite onions, pickles and an entire baked garlic. My favorite of the night was the headcheese, but everything were wonderful. The meats were flavorful but not overpowering nor overtly salty and they all melted in your mouth. The bread basket was also a huge hit. The focaccia was out of this world good. It was way better than any bread that I had while in Italy. A good start to the evening!

M-E-A-T!! Meat meat meat!!

Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton

I would rank my dinner at the Dining Room at the Ritz as the best dining experience of my life. We came here for the boyfriend's big 3-0 and everything, from the food, to the service and ambiance, were pretty close to perfection. Such a memorable experience!!

We arrived a bit early for our 7:30 reservation but the maître d' seated us right away. It's so rare to see white table clothes these days and it definitely lends a touch of elegance. The table was round so we got to sit next to each other, which I preferred. 

The waiter brought us an amuse-bouche of chicken stuffed empanada. The pastry was light and buttery without being oily; definitely wetted our appetite. A few minutes later, the kitchen presented us with the first of two hors d'oeuvres, a fried crab ball topping a mango and jalapeno sauce. They could have used less breading for because the crab was so delicate, but the flavors were en pointe. The second canapé was a boneless chicken wing with a light coriander and peach broth. The chicken skin was so crispy yet moist. It turned out to be Orin's favorite of the night. 

Crab Puff

Chicken Wing

We decided on the tasting menu and share a wine pairing. The boy got himself a Makers on the rocks and our meal awaits. Even the butter was richer and creamier than the run of the mills stuff at grocery stores. The only draw back was that the bread was not freshly baked and a bit stale. It was probably for the best or else I would fill up on starch.

Absinthe Brasserie & Bar

Wow, I was completely blown away by this place!! I would rank Absinthe as one of my top three food experiences in the city. The service wasn't great -- the hostess had a worst case of the bitch-face that I've witnessed in a while, our waitress was friendly but absentee and the busboys were ill trained, but the food, wow, the food was fantastic!!


To start things off, Absinthe lived up to its name with an expansive list of creative cocktails. I had the Galapagos, which consisted of kaffir-lime leaf muddled in pepper syrup, Barsol Pisco, lemon-lime and grapefruit juices. I was expecting a bit more lime leaf, which has an extremely distinctive flavor, but the drink was very yummy nevertheless. The boyfriend had a Manhattan and thoroughly enjoyed his beverage. The night was off to a racing start.


The restaurant has a seasonal menu with large plates, small shared plates and eclectic cheeses and raw bar. We decided to play it safe and share the beef tartare, the sous vide pork loin and the burger with gruyere.


The beef tartare, we both agreed, was bar none, the best that we've had the pleasure to enjoy. If you're a fan of steak tartare, this is a must order. Heck, even if you're a bit freaked out by the idea of raw beef topped off by a raw quail egg, this will make you into a believer. The preparation was simple -- violet mustard, green apple, red onion, cornichons and the quail egg yoke, and the flavors welded together in the most wondrous fashion. The beef, I'm guessing, did not go through a meat grinder and was painstakingly chopped by hand. The result was truly worth the effort because it simply melted in your mouth. It was super fresh and didn't have any raw taste to it at all. I can wax poetic about this dish for paragraphs and paragraphs, but you get the idea. Order it!!

The steak tartare